J'espere que ce sujet ramenera un max de monde à Bercy et que les frenchis brillerons au plus haut niveau pour ces championnats d'europe. ALLEZ la France !!!
Last week, I went with the french team to Cuenca (Spain), for a training course.
The goal of this training course was to try hard routes on sight. We had bad luck, because it rained 4 days in the week, so we climbed under the rain, in the wind and the cold... It was really sticky.
On this crag, there are a lot of two-finger pockets, finger locks and monos. It's a limestone with a lot of texture and sharp holds.
This trip was really interesting because the conditions were good to try hard routes on sight. During the week, I did on sight:
"Chuli cocinero" 8a+
"Public enemy" 8a+/b
"Goliath" 8a+
"El sabor de la caca" 8b+
I flashed "Nikita" - 8b, and on first try "Taladrina" - 8b+.
Hampi is really the sanctuary of rock climbing. You can see boulders on 360°, this is an amazing landscape.
Everybody is friendly and curious, it's funny when they ask why we wear those mats for going climbing. Poverty is omnipresent, and we can always see any bare children on the dirty ground.
When you are in Hampi, the time stops, you live slowly. We where at the end of the season, and we had some problems with the heat, I think the best time is between November and January. The granite has plenty of different textures, and you must always pay attention to your skin if you want climb the next day.
Vaibhav, our guide, is an enthusiastic man, who climbs with a real passion, he gave us a good lesson on the true reasons we have to climb.
I've hold two night sessions, within the fabulous landscapes.
(Picture by Evrard Vendenbaum)
I hope that you can go in this paradise before the closing of the site. A geat thanks to the team which I spend a fucking good trip !
My skin is so bad, but I'm so happy to climb here, that I go until the blood. All the day we meet new people and we climb together on new and classic spots.
David from switzerland in " Goan curner" a classic but so nice bulder.
Two crimps, one good hold to the top, just do the dyno. " I believe, I can fly..."
Evrard Vendenbaum, our cameraman, is so happy to have a look at all those nice boulders...
Here you can climb on crimps, on sloppers, by morning or by night but always on amazing boulders. Ju Nadiras at cosmic cave.
Today was a good day, we found out lots of new problems. We are getting used to the climat: this is not easy, our fingers' skin is hurt. Well anyway, I made a 8a and a 7c flash.
Well, Alex, Ju and I just arrived in Hampi... Oaouh!!! It's so beautiful, but in the same time so hot: the summer season is ending. This is not the best for climbing, neither for my fingers... But anyway the landscapes are amazing, as the temples.
We can only climb at night, it's a short space of time: hope it's going to be enough to make some problems. There are boulders as far as the eye can see.
Liv's passport has been lost, so she's going to fly to bombay only on Sunday with Evrard. Everything is going to be OK...
I'm in Bombai with Julien Nadiras and Axel Ballai. We've just arrived from Geneva, and we'll take a bus this evening to Hampi (about 20 hours to go...).
There is a lot of poor people here, it's crasy to see that. I'll try to give you some news during my trip.
This week-end was the Vertik-trip, a Belgium competition. Some climbers were invited for this challenge of ultime problems and routes. Working the morning, and ultime try in the evening in front of a crazy public. I did third for the boulder problem, and first in the route. With my total of points, I won the competition. Edu Marin was second and Gabor Szekely third.
Congratulations to the organizers for this great event.
Mike Lecompte in the ultime boulder problem. The crazy swing.
This is my first news, and I would like to speak about my last trip: The Cimaï. Two weeks ago, I did Treblinka: 8b, it's an old, but really nice route. I'm so happy I've done it, because it's a legendary route in France.
Juju à l'essai dans le "serment du barreau"
Rackam dans "le clach"- 8b, parré de main de maître par Ju et Jérome. plus dure sera la chute !...
(Picture by Evrard Vendenbaum)
Liv on the Sackline, not so easy but in progress...
Tarzan boys
Star climber behind thoses cameras.
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